The Hike That Changed My Mind About Tenerife (And Myself)

I used to think Tenerife was all about beaches and seafood. But then I found myself hiking across volcanic rock under a sky full of stars, gasping for breath and awe at the same time. I wasn’t here for a challenge—but I got one. And it stayed with me longer than any sunset.

The Trail: Roques de García

It starts from Mirador de la Ruleta, a viewpoint facing the towering Las Cañadas crater. The loop is only 4.2 km, but don’t be fooled—altitude (2183 m) and dry air make it feel longer. You walk on lava fields, between sculptural rocks, with the silhouette of Mount Teide in the distance. It’s one of the few trails open even in winter.

Volcanic rock formations and trailhead landscape on the Roques de García hike in Tenerife.

Why I Hiked at Night

Locals told me the sunrise was worth the cold, so I started at 1:30 AM. It was pitch black, freezing, and silent except for the sound of my steps. I could see constellations, the Milky Way, even a few meteors. I was exhausted—but awake in a way I hadn’t felt in a long time.

Soft sunrise light over volcanic terrain in Tenerife, taken after a night hike.

The Climb to Teide

From 2200 m to 3718 m, the full summit hike is no joke. I stopped at 3250 m to sleep in a refuge. The cold hit hard, and mild altitude sickness made me rethink continuing. But as the sky lightened and I looked out across the crater, it felt like enough. I turned back, not out of failure, but gratitude.

Clouds rolling over the ridge, seen from high altitude near the Teide trail in Tenerife.

What I Packed (and What I Regret)

Layers, gloves, headlamp—check. What saved me, honestly, was having a waterproof hiking backpack. The terrain was dusty, the weather dry but unpredictable, and I was grateful everything stayed protected. My gear stayed dry even when I didn’t.

Rocky morning trail descending from Mount Teide under clear blue sky.

Final Note:

This hike wasn’t about the summit. It was about walking alongside my limits. About hearing my breath between stars. About coming back down different.

If you're planning something similar—take what you need, leave the rest, and protect what matters most.

🔗 [Check the waterproof hiking backpack I used →] 

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