How to Travel the Dolomites with a 20L Expandable Backpack (No Car Needed)
Think the Dolomites require a rental car? Think again. With a smart route, public buses and cable cars can take you through some of the region’s most iconic alpine landscapes — all within three days. No car. No stress. Just clean mountain air, glacier-fed lakes, and a 20L expandable backpack to carry everything you need.
📌 Route Snapshot
- Day 1: Milan → Bolzano → Ortisei → Val di Funes (St. Johann Church)
- Day 2: Seceda Ridge → Alpe di Siusi → Ortisei
- Day 3: Lake Carezza → Return to Milan
🚌 Day 1: From Milan to the Meadows of Val di Funes
Start your morning early with a train ride from Milan to Bolzano. From there, catch a local bus into the charming village of Ortisei. The views already begin to impress — mountain silhouettes, dense pine forests, and winding roads.
That afternoon, take another short bus ride to Val di Funes. Even in cloudy weather, the iconic Church of St. Johann set against the dramatic Odle peaks is unforgettable. My 20L backpack proved ideal — compact but roomy enough for layers, water, and camera gear.
Where I stayed: Garni’ Cittadella in Ortisei — rustic, friendly, and only a few minutes’ walk from the bus stop. Around €130 per night with breakfast and a regional transit card included.
🚠 Day 2: High Ridges and Rolling Grasslands
Today’s about elevation and vastness. We took the Seceda cable car first — at the summit, views stretched across dramatic ridges and grassy slopes. Later, we boarded the old-fashioned wooden gondola (Route 18) for Alpe di Siusi, a sweeping plateau with easy trails and wide-open sky.
The weather shifted from misty to clear skies, and that little expandable backpack handled it all — snacks, windbreaker, power bank, and space for souvenirs.
💡 Pro tip: Buy the “Supersummer” unlimited gondola pass (€62) for stress-free hopping between cable car routes.
🌅 Day 3: Lake Carezza & Wrap-up
On our final morning, we visited Lake Carezza. This turquoise alpine lake looks like it was painted onto the landscape — calm, reflective, and framed by pine forests. It’s smaller than expected, but the quiet atmosphere makes it a perfect end note.
From there, we returned to Bolzano and caught the afternoon train back to Milan. Three days felt just right — fulfilling but never rushed.
🧭 Tips for Car-Free Travel in the Dolomites
- 🚍 Use Südtirolmobil to check bus and gondola times
- ✍ Fill in your transit pass with your name and travel dates before use
- 🎒 Travel light — a 20L expandable backpack is ideal for alpine buses and quick hikes
- ⛅ Weather can turn fast — pack smart and dress in layers
- 🎫 Consider cable car passes if you plan to ride more than twice in a day
🎒 Why I’ll Always Pack Light for Trips Like This
Exploring the Dolomites without a car gave me more than freedom — it gave me clarity. No parking, no planning fuel stops, no fuss. Just mountains, me, and my pack.
And with a 20L expandable backpack, I never once felt weighed down — just free to move, stop, climb, and breathe.
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